The Whole Picture

If we've been on a video call at any time in recent years, you'll be familiar with this picture that sits behind my desk.

An artistic depiction of a small town sitting on deep geological roots beneath a hill (Carn Ingli). The artist uses hessian strips to create texture for the painting itself.
© Gillian McDonald. This image may not be copied or reused without the permission of the artist.

Created by Gillian McDonald ca. 2020, it's called Carn Ingli Stones & Farms II. The catalogue adds: the small hamlets and farms nestle and blend into the Pembrokeshire landscape as if they have always been there.

It's a depiction of the north Pembrokeshire seaside village of Newport, or, to give it its Welsh name, Trefdraeth which simply means "town by the beach". I've never heard the town referred to as Trefdraeth in conversation, but the locals will always refer to Traeth Mawr (big beach) rather than the English "Newport Sands."

A view of Carn Ingli across the Parrog from Traeth Mawr, vaguley similar to the Gillian McDonald picture.

I first went to Newport in 1967, aged 4. We would return for our holidays every year until 1981. Dad was a college lecturer and so our holidays would last 4 weeks. I didn't realise how lucky I was as a child and I completely fell in love with the place (as did my parents). I would want to start getting the 'Pembrokeshire things' out of their winter storage as soon as there was even a hint of summer in the air at home. Some time in April or May, Dad would come home with the Liverpool tide table and I would dutifully type out the tide times for August, adding 4 hours to the Liverpool times.

An obviously old photograph shows a beach at sunset with three boys silhouetted. In the background, a distinctive headland can be seen
The first picture of me in Newport, taken in 1967 by my father. My two elder brothers are paddling with me on Traeth Mawr

As a young adult, I would visit whenever I could but sometimes years would go by without getting my fix of breathing the air at the Parrog. The Welsh word parrog just means harbour. There's one at nearby Fishguard but, like a pop star who's known by a single name, in my mind at least, "Parrog" means Newport unless otherwise qualified.

My passion for the place isn't shared by my wife and I think it must have been 2016 when I started to visit the place on my own. It is now something I do at least 3 times a year, usually staying at Ty Canol campsite (in a campervan/motorhome) and booking my table at the Golden Lion. The 4G signal is sufficiently good that I can work from the motorhome using my phone as a hotspot so the fact that there's no wifi or much else at the campsite isn't a problem. It's the location and the space that makes Ty Canol special, not to mention Meurig's welcome and Huw's evening rounds with the Scotch.

I've told the story of my purchase of the artwork itself when giving presentations about trusted information. As soon as I first walked into The Gallery-Yr Oriel I knew I wanted it on my wall. It immediately captured the mood of the place better than my crummy snapshots can do justice. The problem was the price tag. It wasn't cheap. I needed expert advice.

Michael Archer giving a talk about pictures at en exhibition
My brother, Michael Archer, in full flow. From Gordon Dalton on Threads

With gallery owner Helen Manley-Jones' permission, I took a snapshot of the painting and sent it to a professor of fine art I know. A noted art critic, he's written books on modern art, countless articles, and been a Turner Prize judge. Michael Archer is also my brother. So if there's anyone who can help me decide whether to buy it or not, it's him.

Back came the answer: do you like it? Apparently that's all that matters. Do you like it? If so, and you can afford it, buy it and enjoy it. Well, the 'afford' bit required another conversation entirely but, obviously the decision was made and it's been on prominent display ever since.

So now you know, Carn Ingli Stones & Farms II is my daily reminder of my favourite place. It's really the only place I ever want to be. I'll be there again in about 4 weeks.

The picture I use on my computer desktop. Newport Parrog at sunset, June 2021. Note the distinctive shape of Dinas head in the background, unchanged from that first picture taken of me and my brothers on Traeth Mawr in August 1967 (and long before that!)